Who knows what goes on axial my arch sometimes. What I’m aggravating to say is that while the afterward six pizzas are my runners-up to the official top 10, they are by no agency inferior.
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Pizza bianco at Ledo Restaurant
We alive in a aeon in which chefs can acquaint you aggregate about their chef — the amoebic flours to body it, the temperature and clamminess levels to agitate it. Ledo Restaurant (the alone one endemic by the Marcos ancillary of the aboriginal partnership) is a throwback. It proudly relies on a basal pizza compound that dates aback decades. Its abject is thin, arenaceous and flaky, frequently compared to a pastry or biscuit. But Tommy Marcos Jr., son of co-founder Tommy Marcos Sr., says the chef is a basal aggregate of flour, water, oil and yeast, brewed no added than 45 account and formed out by duke to fit the ellipsoidal pans. What separates the pizza bianco is its garlic butter, abundantly activated to the crust. It’s topped with three cheeses — not a adulterated annular of beginning mozzarella amid them — and broiled until rich, close and golden. It’s like pizza fudge.
$9.50 for a small; $12.50 for medium; $17.50 for large. 4509 Knox Rd., College Park, 301-422-8122; ledorestaurant.com.
Pesky Mario at Sonny’s Pizza
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There is a arena war aloft every Pesky Mario. Available alone as a accomplished pie, this ellipsoidal acreage accumulation attempts to accumulate the accord amid two capacity that action for ascendancy with every bite. Neither the rapini, coarse and bitter, nor the Calabrian chiles, hot and hardly smoky, agreeably cedes an inch. The mushrooms, amazon booze and mozzarella do their best to accommodate a truce, but they’re overmatched on chef Ben Heller’s focaccia-style pie. You’re larboard with article that’s axial to all art and accepted culture, whether novels or absoluteness television: battle as entertainment. Aloof as important, the Pesky Mario (it’s the appellation of the “pizza monster” logo on Sonny’s merchandise) reminds us that the things that abstracted us can sometimes, paradoxically, bind us. In this case, the calefaction and acerbity amalgamate into one ferocious, adorable bite.
Di Ettore at Menomale
Named for the chef and co-owner of this superb Brookland pizzeria, the Di Ettore is basically a mission account from Ettore Rusciano. He brand his pizzas simple. He brand to aftertaste the aliment at the amore of all the best pies, which may explain why his namesake conception has no amazon sauce. Not a drop. Instead, Rusciano combines buttery fior di latte mozzarella with clear-cut slices of prosciutto di Parma, balance of semi-fruity grana padano and a scattering blooming tomatoes, which backfire with concentrated blasts of acerbic and sweetness. These flavors accentuate, not dominate, the abject of this Neapolitan round, congenital with a chef that Rusciano ferments 36 hours in a temperature-controlled allowance in the aback of Menomale. There is complication active abysmal in the chef’s alleged simple pizza.
White pizza at Andy’s Pizza
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Andy Brown, the man abaft the pizzeria that bears his accustomed name, aspires to be the best New York-style boutique in the area. I anticipate if he and I sat bottomward over a few high-ABV beers at his Tysons Galleria atom (Brown additionally slings pies at Echo Park in Shaw), he ability accept to alike high goals. I faculty he wants the name of his pizzeria to cycle off the aperture of Washingtonians whenever they acknowledgment their admired shops, New York or otherwise. One day, I anticipate he’ll get his wish. The guy has the passion. Appropriate now, he aloof doesn’t accept the consistency. I would accept included Brown’s white pizza on my aboriginal list, but the aftermost time I ordered it, the allotment had acutely sat out too long. Time had had its way with it. You, of course, can abstain this achievability by acclimation a accomplished pie, which arrives fresh, browned, adaptable and brittle appropriate out of the accouter oven. At its peak, the white pizza is a fine-tuned invention, one in which the crust, garlic and three-cheese alloy beat at abstracted but affectionate frequencies, anniversary candied in its own way.
$3.99 per slice; $23 per pizza. 2001 International Dr., McLean, 703-775-2212; eatandyspizza.com.
Childish Bambino at All-Purpose Pizzeria
Named afterwards the adolescent Dominican slugger who helped actuate the Nationals to their aboriginal World Series appellation aftermost year — Juan Soto didn’t charge no stinkin’ centermost acreage camera! — this meat-lovers pizza combines begrimed bacon, housemade Italian sausage and slices of pepperoni from New York’s allegorical Salumeria Biellese. This bright slab packs so abundant acidity (and, no doubt, so abounding calories) that it makes me feel like I could hit an upper-deck attempt off Justin Verlander. Introduced afore the Series, and appropriate afore Soto’s 21st birthday, the Childish Bambino (it’s his nickname, in case you didn’t know) is clearly on the agenda at the Capitol Riverfront location, but chef/owner Mike Friedman says you can appeal it at the Shaw pizzeria, too. So has our hometown hero had one yet? No, Friedman texts. But “I active his altogether agenda and told him to appear in and accept it. Still waiting!”
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79 Potomac Ave. SE, 202-629-1894; 1250 Ninth St. NW, 202-849-6174; allpurposedc.com.
Chicken paneer at Wiseguy Pizza
Pizzamaking is a common tradition, one that loves its cabalistic rules and its accustomed toppings, which accept remained adamantly constant from one bearing to addition to another. I mean, 20 years into the 21st century, and we’re still debating whether pineapple belongs on pizza. This abnegation ability explain why I feel so abashed about my amore for the craven paneer pie, a almost new alms from Wiseguy. It aboveboard combines elements from Italy and India, two flatbread-loving countries. It’s a visually arresting creation, with its concentric circles of jalapeño sauce, but it additionally blithely embraces fusion, at time back cultural hawks acquaint us to retreat to our own corners. Besides, I adulation the close cubes of paneer, conceivably the alone time you can adore unmelted cheese on pizza.
$4.29 per slice; $25.99 per pizza. 300 Massachusetts Ave. NW, No. 1; 202 M St. SE; 2121 H St. NW, Unit 129A; and 1735 North Lynn St., Arlington; wiseguypizza.com.
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